FeaturedThe Lightroom Show

It’s “The Lightroom Show” Episode #3 with Scott & RC

We’re back with Episode #3, and we packed even more Lightroom goodness in this episode without going over our 15 minute time-limit (but we got really close), and just so you know we’ve been listening:

(1) We had lots of requests to take one of our viewer’s images and show how we would edit that image from start to finish (so we did)

(2) We added a segment from here on out on tips for using Lightroom Mobile

(3) Per numerous request we had the camera crew zoom in tighter from time to time for a more intimate feel (more like they do on The Grid)

(4) We included a follow-up one something from one of our previous shows based on your comments

Heck, it’s pretty much all based on your comments (and emails), so I hope you’ll check it out.

Also, just a reminder you can subscribe to the show FREEin iTunes, and watch it full-screen right within iTunes as well. Here’s a direct link to the show on the iTunes Store (once you’re there, click on the number just to the left of the episode’s name to reveal a blue play button — as seen below).


Also, you can watch us on the free Podcast App that comes pre-installedl in all iPhone and iPads running IOS 8.

Lastly, you can watch ALL our free webcasts (Photoshop User TV, The Grid, and Photo Tips & Tricks) over at KelbyTV.com.

Thanks for all your support everybody, and hope you find this new episode helpful. 🙂


-Scott & RC



  1. Mosley Hardy 3 March, 2015 at 21:53 Reply

    Great show, and great series guys! I have a print module question: Let’s say (for example) that I want to “float” an 8 x 12 image on an 11 x 17 sheet, and print it on the 24″ roll paper in my printer. Is there a workaround (other than print to JPEG and re-import)to put crop or trim marks around the 11 x 17 page and not just the 8 x 12 image cell?

    • lyle 9 March, 2015 at 10:49 Reply

      Custom picture package – I’ve been able to do something like this by creating a pure white jpg (your 11×17) and use it as the bottom cell picture. Place the cell for your 8×12 above it (right click cell when selected) The crop marks on mine only showed on the bottom picture – which gave me what I needed. A possible for you.

    • lyle 9 March, 2015 at 10:55 Reply

      Custom Picture Package. On an oversize sheet, make a cell 11×17 – make another cell 8×12 centered over the 11×17. Put a pure white picture in the 11×17 bottom cell (right click “move to bottom”) Put your 8×12 in it’s cell. Turn on the crop marks. They only show on the bottom image for me, and that would give you what you’re looking for if I understood your post. (I had problems posting if this gets duplicated).

    • IanB 2 March, 2015 at 20:53 Reply

      good show Fellas

      one to share with you to share with everyone. Using window>>Open a file in library>>hit the “~” key and file is flagged>>hit the same key again..flag is gone. no need for the “P” key

      So easy now to flag/reject files with the left hand and two fingers 🙂

      Cheers from way down-under

  2. Bill Araujo 1 March, 2015 at 12:30 Reply

    This show and the other tips that you’re providing is nothing short of Terrific! Thanks for allowing comments because there’s additional info and tips being further explained and given. ALL of Kelbyone ROCKS!

  3. Evan Christie 1 March, 2015 at 01:34 Reply

    Awesome tips yet again and it’s certainly not time wasted. But I can imagine that as the number of episodes increase there will be much to remember. Have you thought about producing a PDF to list your tips.

  4. Richard 28 February, 2015 at 19:58 Reply

    To add to your tip about changing the size for spot removal…You can change the size of the circle with the wheel on your mouse, Roll it one way and it gets bigger, the other way makes it smaller

  5. Ross Chevalier 28 February, 2015 at 14:23 Reply

    Another great episode, clear and to the point. I really enjoyed the “what would you do” editing section. Partly because I wanted to see if you would go the way i would and what options I might have been missing. What I learned this episode was the idea of the duotone where the toning was only applied to the shadow parts of the image. Super effective and a technique that will drive me back to some existing images for further experimentation.

  6. Michael Adkins 28 February, 2015 at 14:15 Reply

    It would be great to have all your shows, training, blog and books accessible from KelbyOne site. A portal to your offerings. It may sound silly but I could not remember the URL to the new Lightroom show and had a time locating it. Thank you. Great show. Always learn so much.

  7. Prashant Sethi 27 February, 2015 at 20:46 Reply

    Great show. Enjoyed seeing you edit the image and importantly explain why you are making those adjustments. Helps people learning a lot. Next time will submit a photo for editing. Might get lucky! Cheers.

  8. Mark M 27 February, 2015 at 20:23 Reply

    Great show. I have just changed from Aperture to LR. SO much to learn.

    Question regarding sending files out to online printing services. Do you recommend making a single composite print with the same image at varying brightness levels to get the right setting? If so, how do you do that? Thanks!


  9. Lindsay 27 February, 2015 at 14:38 Reply

    i’m not sure about what happened when you held the shift key and clicked on white and black. Does Lightroom optimize the amount of white and black for the photo? How does it decide?

    • Scott Kelby 27 February, 2015 at 15:09 Reply

      Hi Lindsay — it’s doing kind of an “Auto Levels” (if you’re familiar with that in Photoshop) where it expands to tonal range to it’s widest amount without (usually) clipping either the whites or the blacks. I believe it does it’s adjustment based on the Histogram of that particular image.

  10. Dan McNeil 27 February, 2015 at 09:41 Reply

    Great tutorial, Scott. Liked very much the review/update of previous tips: print brightness. Was hoping to see whether perceptual or relative intent when printing.

    • KC 27 February, 2015 at 11:36 Reply

      Since Scott’s answer was not very edifying. You may know which one you like better, but you won’t know why. Or, you may dislike both, and don’t know why. Some background might help you choose.

      Ron Martinsen, who recently guest blogged on Scott’s blog (http://bit.ly/1LQzBtC), writes his own blog and interviewed John Paul Caponigro regarding his approach to printing. http://bit.ly/1wuHxiL

      While John Paul echoes Scott’s simple advice of testing, he adds that he prefers Relative Colorimetric, but will choose Perceptual for “saturated fields of color.”

      Ron also interviewed Vincent Versace, who also prefers Relative Colorimetric, as it “provides more accurate color, but is less forgiving.” http://bit.ly/1Gzbleo

      You may also wish to review an older, but still useful explanation by Dry Creek Photo, in regards to the Rendering Intent options in Photoshop: http://bit.ly/1vGcEak

      In the latest version of Lightroom, hovering over the Perceptual and Relative options in both the Develop > Soft Proofing and Print > Print Job areas provides the following:

      Perceptual — Preserves out-of-gamut detail, but may change in-gamut colors.

      Relative — Preserves color accuracy, but clips out-of-gamut detail.

      I have notes on this, but do not remember where I got the information—so use cautiously:

      Relative Colorimetric — Choose if the soft proofing of the print is a little out-of-gamut.

      Perceptual — Choose if the soft proofing is a lot out-of-gamut.

    • lyle 27 February, 2015 at 13:07 Reply

      Layman’s explanation, since I am one. 🙂

      Try soft proofing and compare against some prints; personally I can’t do it but some people “get it” and use it a lot.

      It’s image dependent – my rule of thumb from experience: Generally try perceptual when you have really vivid or bright, saturated colors with lots of gradient in them. Use relative most of the time, if you have less of those. Perceptual squishes out-of-gamut image colors into whatever the printer can do by changing ALL colors in the image to favor the wild ones and preserves gradients (and can look duller in my experience) but your mind likes the result, if you don’t get critical about specific areas. “Relative” changes just those out of gamut colors to the nearest color the colorspace of the printer can do, and leaves the rest alone – so you may get more faithful, measurable 1:1 color in most of your image. Make sure you specify a color profile for the printer / paper combo if you have it.

      Hope that helps someone.

      • Paul C 27 February, 2015 at 09:58 Reply

        Yes – I was sent a corrupt download, too, I’ll check my RSS download this evening, otherwise, yes, We’ll have to view online.

        Great show, though (first few minutes), more intimate camera angles, at a pace we can follow. Looking forward to LR6 beta release, soon, too, and this will be the site and show to follow when that happens!

    • Bill Bentley 27 February, 2015 at 12:12 Reply

      Al, I find your comment a bit rude. This is a “tips” site. Tips can come at any time. You’re not going to get a time stamp for them. If you feel that watching these guys for 15 mins is ever a waste then either your life is too busy or you don’t need this site.

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